The Fashion Theory of Everything
What can we consider, "fashion" in this day and age? I dont really give a f**k.
The three color rule, the sandwich theory, removing a an accessory or article of clothing before you leave the house. We’ve heard all the fashion theories and style advisories for those trying to live, eat and breath the world of faSHAOWN. So how to we “become fashion?” How does one attain a sense of fashion or style when it comes to their own sense of self? It’s a lot easier than you think, but before we jump through that hoop, we need to adjust the way we consume the idea of “fashion” and “style” as well as the content surrounding it. So let’s start with the ground work, first.
What does "Fashion” even mean? Well, per Iowa State University, Fasion is a social process; a way of behaving that a discernable proportion of a social group temporarily adopts and which is perceived to be socially appropriate for a time and situation. But if you find yourself on Masterclass, fashion is the dominant style within a given culture at a certain time, so it really just depends on who you ask.
“Okay Julia, we get it. Fashion is a construct and can be interpreted in as many ways as there are minds in the world. But if that’s fashion, then what’s Style?”
Im glad you asked, let’s talk about it. If you’re looking for a more technical response, Merriam Webster classifies Style as a particular manner or technique by which something is done, created, or performed. This is important, so keep this in mind for later. If you pay notice, there are certain descriptors omitted from such definitions- fashion, clothing, trends. If you’re wondering why I would quite literally go to the dictionary or encyclopedia vs Vogue, Cosmo or Elle for any fashion related definitions and descriptions, it’s actually very simple… none of it matters. Not a technical definition, not a hot take from a globally dominating fashion publication, not what the current It Girl Influencer was wearing on her Who Wore What… Fashion and style is not a science, although they have been studied and explained ten times over by out of reach and out of touch individuals with a tendency to excessively elaborate on each aspect in order to fit the original narrative they set in place, or that was set in place above them. Aside from their reality, there also exists an alternate one that is far more common for consumers like you and me.
For many, Fashion and Style have been driven, molded or inspired by Social Movements and political activism. In January of 2023, fashion news platform, Fashion United, released an article asking: is fashion becoming politicized? What’s interesting here is the correlation between fashion and business accountability. The political piece referring to fair business practices such as adhering to certain sustainability claims, diversity inclusion and addressing additional political movements that affect any sort of sense of self, i.e. anti-abortion laws. "Companies and their leaders have a responsibility to speak out on social and political issues" - experts of the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM). So far, we went from traditional magazine cookie cutter “fashion” terminology to Social Movements to fair and respectable business practices… You see how this can get kind of confusing? Let me simplify it - I’ll be linking my favorite staple pieces throughout so you’ll want to start paying attention right around HERE.
During the early 1900s, a notable movement advocating for women's suffrage emerged both in the United States and Britain. This movement aimed to assert women's right to participate in the electoral process and cast their votes. Approximately 5,000 women marched in Washington, D.C. in 1913, firmly reiterating their insistence on attaining the right to vote. The Women's Suffrage Movement had a profound impact on the evolution of women's clothing, shifting it from the restrictive and voluminous Victorian dresses to more comfortable and streamlined ensembles. Prior to, women's fashion choices were dictated by the societal patriarchy, conforming to what men perceived as attractive. However, as part of their assertion of agency, women began wearing trousers that had been traditionally deemed inappropriate for them. This was the first official F U to the patriarchy when it came to style.
If you think it was limited to women’s movements for women’s fashion, you’d be highly incorrect. In October 1966, the Black Panther Party for Self-Defense was established in Oakland, California. The vision for the organization was was rooted in Black nationalism, socialism, and armed self-defense, with a particular focus on responding to instances of police brutality. Aside from their relentless fight for equality and social justice, what most outsiders were quick to notice was what became overwhelmingly knows as the Black Panther Uniform: “An afro tucked into a black beret, sunglasses over the eyes, a black leather jacket ornamented with pinback buttons, and a gun strapped across the body with a fist in the air. This is the uniform of the Black Panther Party (National Museum of African American History and Culture).
Lot’s of current events and movements happened in between to help further the thought of individuality and a personal sense of self, which brings us to today. What does any of this mean for how we decide what Fashion or Style is in today’s current climate? Remember when we talked about the Merriam Webster definition of style? - “Style is a particular manner or technique by which something is done, created, or performed….” The women of the 1913 WOmen’s Suffrage Movement, didn’t have a dictionary to determine what was in style or what was not, and yet they’re actions and this definition are one in the same. The Black Panthers didn’t have access to stylists or fashion experts to show them how to dress. They did it in their own way that adhered to their message and how they carried themselves on a day to day basis. What led their stylistic approach was not to be a trendsetter or to get the most likes on Instagram. It was to be seen, to be heard, and to be respected as a citizen of their community and a respectable human of our planet. Many of which are still fighting for those rights today.
“Okay but what does that have to do with what you think fashion is?”
Look around, fashion is everywhere. It’s in the overturning of Roe v Wade. It’s in the never-ending wars overseas hurting thousands of innocent civilians. It’s freedom of expression and thought that helps make a bit more sense of your world. Whether that’s in a leather jacket and immaculately shaped Afro, or a men’s suit out of spite, fashion is the catalyst and style is the movement. When it comes to my personal style, it’s never just a one sided coin. To get dressed everyday is to understand the message you want to convey in that moment in time, whether that is inspired by a social movement or just your day to day routine. When I get dressed in the morning, I don’t think about what’s going to go best together or what will gain the most attention on the interwebs. It all starts when I wake up. Did I dream? Am I groggy? Do I feel recharged and ready for the day? Who knows, that’s why I down a cup of cafecitio every morning until I figure that out. But when I do, the fun truly begins. Every outfit, at least for me, starts with an emotion. I can be angry, happy, sad, melancholy, who really cares but that emotion is typically the driving force between any or all initial clothing decisions. Once that first piece is selected, the rest of the emotions flow. I’ve accepted that this is who I am today and it’ll reflect in the way I STYLE myself. Not style as in trendy, style as in Merriam Webster. As a creative director, content creator and photographer, my day to day is a big influence in outfit selection. Upon emotional acceptance of that first piece, everything falls in line. Am I shooting a lot, moving around? Maybe cargo pants for all the pockets. Is it a heavy editing day where I’ll be at my laptop for 10 hours? I may not change out of my pajamas. But you see how all that is dictated by Life and not by Anna Wintour’s 7 Style Tips to Live by?
We tend to put so much pressure on ourself in order to fit into a societal norm, which is ironically what great men and women fought to prevent in charged political times before us. Let's take a page from their book. Here are some of my unwavering basics that every closet needs, to help establish your own sense of fashion and style, dictated by nobody other than You…
White Tee’s: a big staple to any outfit. Whether worn alone or layered for a more dynamic look, the importance of having a solid white tee in your closet means you will always have an outfit base you won’t ever have to think twice about.
Organic Cotton Vintage Shrunken Tshirt - Gap, $24.95
Luxe Crewneck - Old Navy, $11.99
TopShop Everyday Tee, Petite - I have the regular size since I’m tall but the petite works too, $16.99
Supina Crewneck Tshirt - Banana Republic, $50.00
Slim Fit Tshirt - Weekday via ASOS, $20.00
Friday 90’s Fit Style Tee - Weekday via ASOS, $28.00
Everyday Jeans: From wide leg to cargo to straight, there are pantalones for every and any occasion and/or social/political expression. Here are a few to help get your closet started, some that wont fray, wont tear and will last you through all of your movements.
High Rise Wide Leg Medium Wash Denim - Zara, $49.90
Full Length Midrise, Wide Leg Jean - Zara, $49.90
Literally any wide leg jean from zara honestly….
Midrise Straight Jeans - Mango, $69.99
Baggy Green Tinted Lowrise Jean - BDG Urban Outfitters, $79.99
Parachute Cargo Pants - Amazon, $27.99
Alas, you’ve made it to the end. If you’re still with me, please a round of applause as I know this is a new format we’re trying out. Working on more exciting pieces that are coming down the pipeline, in efforts to establish our community as so much more than girlies from the internet. We have Big Ass Brains, Big Ass Hearts, and it’s only right we know how to properly express those unique abilities.
Kloveyoubyeeeeee
-Big Sis Julia
Although style is important to me, I’ve never thought much about the theories surrounding it. Very cool stuff!